So you have decided to make the transition from indoor to outdoor rock climbing? Good choice! Outdoor rock climbing is truly inspirational.
This article assumes that you're reasonably proficient with lead climbing on indoor sport routes and that you're comfortable clipping into quick draws, but haven't yet placed any protection (wires, nuts, cams, hexentrics etc).
Here's a few tips to make your transition safe and enjoyable:
1. Find a buddy with some experience of climbing outdoors
You'll find that the first time you climb outdoors, there's a lot of extra things to think about, and it's really easy to miss something. An experienced outdoor climber will be able to point out any mistakes you make, keeping you safe. If there's no-one available you might want to consider investing in an outdoor lead climbing course.
2. Practice placing protection
Ask someone with experience to show you the correct way to place gear. I can't stress how important this is, badly placed gear can easily pop out if you fall out. I would strongly recommend that you practice placing gear at ground level before trying it at height.
3. Start off with a climb in the lower grades
You might be able to comfortably climb a 5c sport route indoors, but please don't attempt anything like that on your first outdoor expedition. Start with adjective grade Diff or V Diff (these are both below 4a), preferably with some nice ledges to stand on for placing your gear and clipping in. You're likely to find that you end up climbing a good 3 grades below your indoor lead grade. I consistently lead around 5b on indoor sport routes, but I only confidently lead around HS (4c) outdoors.
4. Make sure you have good technique
Climbing outdoors will test you in ways you have never experienced indoors, so you should get some key techniques dialed in. Lay backs, finger jams and bridging are all very useful for climbing outdoors. Learning to mantle shelf should be high on your list too, as almost every outdoor climb will require you to climb over the top (something you will never have had to do indoors).
If you're careful and keep your risks to a minimum, outdoor climbing is no more dangerous than climbing indoors. It is hugely rewarding and places you in some very beautiful environments.
I hope to see you out there.
This article assumes that you're reasonably proficient with lead climbing on indoor sport routes and that you're comfortable clipping into quick draws, but haven't yet placed any protection (wires, nuts, cams, hexentrics etc).
Here's a few tips to make your transition safe and enjoyable:
1. Find a buddy with some experience of climbing outdoors
You'll find that the first time you climb outdoors, there's a lot of extra things to think about, and it's really easy to miss something. An experienced outdoor climber will be able to point out any mistakes you make, keeping you safe. If there's no-one available you might want to consider investing in an outdoor lead climbing course.
2. Practice placing protection
Ask someone with experience to show you the correct way to place gear. I can't stress how important this is, badly placed gear can easily pop out if you fall out. I would strongly recommend that you practice placing gear at ground level before trying it at height.
3. Start off with a climb in the lower grades
You might be able to comfortably climb a 5c sport route indoors, but please don't attempt anything like that on your first outdoor expedition. Start with adjective grade Diff or V Diff (these are both below 4a), preferably with some nice ledges to stand on for placing your gear and clipping in. You're likely to find that you end up climbing a good 3 grades below your indoor lead grade. I consistently lead around 5b on indoor sport routes, but I only confidently lead around HS (4c) outdoors.
4. Make sure you have good technique
Climbing outdoors will test you in ways you have never experienced indoors, so you should get some key techniques dialed in. Lay backs, finger jams and bridging are all very useful for climbing outdoors. Learning to mantle shelf should be high on your list too, as almost every outdoor climb will require you to climb over the top (something you will never have had to do indoors).
If you're careful and keep your risks to a minimum, outdoor climbing is no more dangerous than climbing indoors. It is hugely rewarding and places you in some very beautiful environments.
I hope to see you out there.
About the Author:
Gareth Hanson is an enthusiastic climber. Check out his blog for information on rock climbing, including gear reviews, crags, climbs and techniques: rockclimbinguk.com
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